Cycling the Atlantic coast of Europe from north to south during the summer of 2017. View the archive, the route so far, or donate to MSF.

A breath of fresher air

By Stuart Lowe on

The rash has been slowly going down. So I'm back on the road after a very long sleep last night.

Today sees me visit the northernmost point in Spain but also has a sapping number of hills.

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Leaving Viveiro

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Faro da Estaca de Bares - the northernmost point on the Spanish mainland.

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Northernmost building?

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Latitude marker

I looked north across the Bay of Biscay. Over there was Ireland and Mizen Head where I was just a month ago.

As I got back to the car park I heard someone say "there's a Yorkshire tshirt". I met Ian and Jean. Jean is from Sheffield. It turns out they had first met in Burley-in-Wharfdale. It is a small world. We had a nice chat. They have been trying to spot Spanish bears. That worried me but Ian insisted they are very rare and shy.

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Ian and Jean

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Missing trees

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Heading around the north west coast of Spain

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A black cat crossed my path.

As I stopped to consult a map in Cedeira, a black cat crossed my path and looked expectantly at me. I think it thought I was its human as a man turned up on a bicycle and, realising its error, ran over to him.

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Finally the air felt fresher as I rounded the top of Spain.

At this point my breathing suddenly felt easier. My cold symptoms were still there but my ungs felt better. I started to wonder if it was hayfever from some plant in this region. Now that I was rounding the coast the prevailing winds would be bringing me ocean air rather than air from the land. Fingers crossed that that was the source of the cold.

I had been heading for a campsite on the coast but realised that would be another 179m hill (which I'd have to climb back over tomorrow) and I felt I should try to reduce the number of kilometres I had planned for tomorrow. So I headed on to Ferrol. The next campsite was going to be 2 hours cycle further which would make it near sunset. So, I chickened out and treated myself to a hotel. It turned out that paying in person it was cheaper than on the popular booking websites. Either that or the £ is having issues.