Cycling the Atlantic coast of Europe from north to south during the summer of 2017. View the archive, the route so far, or donate to MSF.

Cathedral beach

By Stuart Lowe on

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Last night's hotel had a little bike maintenance area.

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Long shadows starting this morning

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Early morning flights make a Saltire

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Up my first hill of the day

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Flight path

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Railway viaduct

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Motorway sailing overhead

I was getting jealous of the motorway this morning as it got to sail along keeping it's altitude whereas I had to go into every ravine.

My left crank started to come off. Not sure why. I tightened it back on, as best as I could, with the huge Allen key on my little tool set. But, on seeing a bike shop by the side of the road, I decided I should get it tightened properly.

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Thanks to the man at Garaje Paco

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Bridge at Ribadeo.

After crossing the bridge at Ribadeo, I took some smaller roads. At one point a small yappy-type dog jumped out into the street and chased me, snapping at my heels. I did my usual of stopping and getting off my bike. It backed off but gave chase again when I remounted. Grr.

I was heading to Praia das Catedrais where Luis from Santander had said I should visit.

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Heading towards Praia das Catedrais

As I arrived at Praia das Catedrais, I saw two touring cyclists. Theye were Claudine and Bernard. They were cycling from near Nantes, south around the coast of France, Spain, Portugal, and Spain. They were having lunch and this was where I'd planned to stop for lunch too. They invited me to join them. We had a nice long conversation, in French, over a late lunch. That GCSE in French has proved useful even if I've forgotten a lot.

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I met Bernard and Claudine from France.

Afterwards, we went to a little cafe and they kindly bought me an espresso.

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Praia das Catedrais

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Praia das Catedrais

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Looking west

I wished them "bon voyage" and pushed on. From this point I part ways with the Camino pilgrims. They head inland towards Santiago de Compostela. I stick to the coast. It will be sad to no longer see the walkers on the road. People will probably stop saying "buon Camino" to me.

The last 50km of the day was a little harder. I had the start of a cold this morning and it got worse. I noticed that it was affecting my breathing. You know when you've got the start of a chesty cough coming on? That. I'm not sure excerising it off is a thing so I'll endeavour to eat plenty of fruit and veg in the hope that helps.

I'd been slowly working through the elevation gain Google maps had suggested for today. I knew there was a 171m climb just near the end. I was dreading it even though it wasn't all that high compared to what I've been up. In the end it wasn't too steep. But I was glad to reach the top. From there I could glide down into Viviero and the campsite.

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Looking down from the top of the last big hill of the day.