Dodging the showers
This morning I ticked off the last thing on my dad's list; I visited the little museum in Gairloch. I found out a little about neolithic times and the geology of Wester Ross.
With a late start I headed east and inland to Loch Maree. The rain set in again as I rode down the edge of Loch Maree. At Kinlochewe I stopped for tea and cake in a little cafe before failing to be able to help a couple with a broken wheel because my spare spokes were too small for their wheel. They said they had someone they could call so I headed on.
The road rose upwards and, as it turned a corner, I got a braw view down Glen Torridon. It was lovely. I sang about bubbling rivers and the glistening glens as I rode.
Eventually I reached Shieldaig and had a choice. I could go the shortcut along the A896 or keep to the coast. I kept to the coast road. It was narrow and twisting and full of hills. It also had a traffic jam at one point because of wide loads in both directions and people refusing to give way. On a bike I wove through the stuck vehicles with their stubborn drivers and carried on. I was still trying to outrun showers and did a pretty good job of letting them pass ahead of me or rushing forwards so they passed behind.
Around the headland I had a great view out towards rainy Raasay and Skye beyond. I also met a herd of highland cows by the side of the road. In the evening sun, this was one of my favourite views I've seen in Scotland.
A bit along the coast, a few miles from Applecross, I found a nice spot to wild camp. It was just up and out of view from the road, had a bit of a breeze (which helped keep the midges down), and had a grand view of the sunset. I pitched my tent and rang my dad to let him know where I was.
I cooked dinner and watched the rain fall over on Skye. I'd be there tomorrow.