Cycling the Atlantic coast of Europe from north to south during the summer of 2017. View the archive, the route so far, or donate to MSF.

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By Stuart Lowe on

It was raining. Yes, I know this is getting repetitive. I bundled things up and headed out into the midge-filled wet. I got my bike down from the rocky outcrop and cycled in the rain for a few kilometres before I found a picnic spot with a covered picnic bench. What a fantastic innovation! I had breakfast. I was running short of water though.

Sure it was sunny yesterday evening but then the rain started again during the night.

I plodded through the miles. Norway requires everywhere to take three times as long to get to as you wind around fjords. Namsos looked so close on the large scale map but took ages to get to. Just before getting to it I was diverted away from the tunnel to use a bike path. It deposited me on a residential street with no obvious sign to the Tourist information office. I wandered all around Namsos looking for it. Eventually I found it but it was closed. It turns out it is the only day it is closed. The reception staff in the neighbouring hotel filled in and helpfully printed out Google map directions for me taking the Dutch couple's route.

After a visit to the Rema 1000, the Coop Xtra, an electrical store to get a new USB cable, and a stop to make fried eggs, I was off south on the good old 17. It was busier though.

Having charge back on my internet-enabled phone meant I could see my rough route I'd planned beforehand. Oh no. It turns out I was to do an extra twiddly bit south of Namsos. So at Årgård I turned right into the mountains. It was 43 kilometres to Osen on the coast. Up and up the road went. It climbed up over 200 metres then had a fairly gentle slope down towards Osen. The smaller bumps near the end were the most sapping.

Now I'm in a mix of sun and showers that needs sun cream and full waterproofs.


Thistles in the sun.

I arrived at Osen Fjordcamping just after 8pm. The reception was closed. I don't have a sim card that can make calls in Norway but I realised I could Skype. The man at the other end of the phone told me to just pitch my tent and pay in the morning. A Swedish couple enquired about my trip and I caused much amusement for a group of raucous Norwegian OAPs.

Friendly Swedish couple. There are fewer non-Norwegian tourists in this part of Norway.

After a wet morning and afternoon, the evening had become quite sunny. The campsite was also midge free. Bliss.