Cycling the Atlantic coast of Europe from north to south during the summer of 2017. View the archive, the route so far, or donate to MSF.

And then the rain set in

By Stuart Lowe on

There had been rain overnight so the clothes I'd left out to dry hadn't. They got put in a plastic bag with the hope to dry them this evening. I set off late to ride the 17 kilometres to Annualsvâgan. A few kilometres before the harbour I ended up racing the ferry again. I got there just before the ferry. But, it turns out that on a Saturday there are fewer services so it sat there for over an hour.

Over the water I arrived in Horn and cycled on to Brønnøysund. I visited the tourist information office then the shopping centre where I bought neoprene gloves and waterproof overshoes. I had a panic as I realised my GPS was missing. I retraced my steps and found it in the tourist information office. Phew.

I started to go to the Torghatten; the mountain with a hole through the middle. Legend tells of eight sisters. A horseman saw them and had fallen in love with the oldest. He was a misogynist so decided to capture her. Thankfully she was able to out-run him. But there is nothing as bad as a man spurned and he decided that he would kill her instead. He fired an arrow at her. The troll king had been watching and threw his hat in the way. The sun then rose turning everything to stone. Torghatten was the troll's hat. However, part way there I saw the skies to the south. They looked dark. I turned around and headed back to the 17. Then the rain set in. I donned my new gloves and overshoes. I still got wet.

I rode hard through the rain for the 40 kilometres to Vennesund. I arrived just in time for the ferry which was in the process of unloading. A short trip over to Holm and I rode a bit further along the road. Where to stop? Finding a flat spot was hard. The first I found was swarming with flies. I pressed on around a fjord and up a mountain. I found a roughly flat spot and decided I'd done enough for today. Within a couple of minutes I was swarmed by flies and midges. I quickly dug out the head net I had for just such an occasion. They are just as annoying as Scottish midges. I carefully cooked dinner inside my tent to escape the rain and midges. It kept raining.